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随着中国经济的繁荣和国际时装秀的频繁介入，中国服装设计品牌进入了发展的最佳时期，这对中国服装设计师来说是一把双刃剑。中国服装设计师协会主席李明欣在2015届世嘉时装秀（http://News，Acth.Net／20150504／N738 142.html）中宣布，中国服装设计师将迎来其充满希望的春天。服装设计师是服装设计行业的精神领袖，因此，本部分将从团队、时尚中心、支持和可持续性的角度，对中国设计师刘佳婷设计的一个起义品牌Chictopia进行案例研究，以分析中国服装品牌的发展潜力。
With the prosperity of the China’s economy and the frequent involvement in the international fashion show, the Chinese fashion design brand comes into the best time for its development which is a double-edged sword for the Chinese fashion designer. Li Mingxin, Chairmen of Shiji fashion organization, asserts that the Chinese fashion designer will welcome its hopeful spring soon in 2015 Shijia Fashion Show (http://news.artron.net/20150504/n738142.html). The fashion designer is the spiritual leader for fashion design industry, thus, this part will take on a case study of a uprising brand Chictopia designed by Chinese designer Christine Lau from the aspect of a team, fashion centre, support and sustainability in order to analyze the development potential of fashion brands in China.
1 A team 一个团队
一个团队在服装设计中起着重要的作用，因为最好的服装结合了很多人的努力，从首席设计师到裁缝、推销员、经销商等。近年来，中国的时装设计师把以前的个人工作变成了团队工作。Chictopia是2009年在中国兴起的一个新品牌，由出生于中国北京的刘志婷（Chirstina Lau）经营，并在圣马丁艺术学院（St Martin's School of Art）学习时尚设计。Chictopia以优雅、时尚为特点，注重服装的创意。刘志玲的设计格言是传统元素与现代简约设计的结合。奇克托皮亚设计的服装既精致又经典。刘志玲认为面料是时装设计的关键，因此她对面料的使用有着独特的看法。此外，设计师Chirstina Lau将为每个季节选择和裁剪独特的印花面料（Chictopia的独特面料见图20），这是Chictopia的另一个特点，有助于Chictopia在时尚潮流中脱颖而出。从Chictopia的运营情况可以看出，品牌的成功是团队的共同努力。A team plays an important role in fashion design as the best clothes combine the efforts of lots people from the leading designer, to the tailor, salesmen, distributor, etc. Recent years, Chinese fashion designers change the previous individual work into the team work. Chictopia as a new brand in China emerges in 2009 is operated by Chirstina Lau who was born in Beijing, China and leaned fashion design in St Martin’s School of Art. Chictopia is characterized by elegance, fashion and focuses on the creativity of clothes. The design motto held by Chirstina Lau is the combination of traditional elements and the modern simple design. The designed clothes in Chictopia are delicacy and classic. Chirstina Lau considers the fabric is the key to fashion design, thus, she holds particular views to the usage of fabric. Besides, for each of the season, the designer Chirstina Lau will select and cut the specialized and unique printed fabric (see Figure 20 for the unique fabric of Chictopia) which is another feature of Chictopia and helps Chictopia to be extraordinary in the fashion tide. From the operation of Chictopia, it can see that the success of a brand is the concerted effort of a team. On the one hand, the whole team should have a leading role that is the design who must be creative and innovation. In the team of Chictopia, Christina Lau is rewarded the excellent designer with positive attitude in 2014 (http://ent.163.com/14/1210/17/AD4E5Q3E00034URH.html), which means a good spiritual leader can stimulate the potential of a team and brings fame and profit to the team at the same time. As in the reward ceremony Christina Lau said the special interest and adaptation helped her to create and design the clothes favored by most of people around the world and the amicable team atmosphere she benefited a lot which made lots of contribution to for her from idea coming up to clothes making. Her team helps her to create and update her own website and e-shop, such as https://chicto-pia.taobao.com and http://www.chictopia.net/. This is fashionable way and helps her design favored by more and more young people. Therefore, in the future it is advisable to cooperate with a good team and create good time spirit atmosphere which is the potential for the development of China’s fashion design.
Figure 20 Chictopia designed by Chinese designer Christine Lau
2 Fashion centre
The fashion center is a place where people can purchase fashionable items as well as a place gathered lots of creative designers and can lead the fashion tide of the world, such as London, New York, Milan, Paris, etc. In China Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong, etc. are regarded as the fashion centers. These fashion centers can let the designer be exposed under thought provoking circumstance and give them fresh ideas to refashion and refresh themselves as fashion is scattered and accumulated by places. Chen and Li (2014: pp.150-166) claim that the closer to the fashion center, the easier fashion inclination will be. Chictopia’s headquarter is located in Beijing which is also the hometown of Chirstina Lau. From the above mentioned it can see on the one hand, the success of Chictopia is established at a good location which is the birthplace of the fashion as well the political center. On the other hand, the fashion center can help the customers make a comparison of fashionable clothes, which is an effective way for distribution. From Figure 21, it can see that the fashion center in Beijing presents radioactive distribution from Beijing to Tianjin. The close to the fashion center helps Chictopia to keep contact with the other fashion design affairs and absorb more valuable resources. Lots of Chictopia’s customers are famous stars, celebrity and ordinary people. Chen Qiaoen, a renowned Chinese soap opera actress, says “I love Chictopia because in the shopping malls I can’t find another more fashionable clothes than this brand. The fabric makes crazy about it”. In brief, the fashion centre can stimulate the development of the fashion brands and the horizon of the fashion designer, which is good for both the fashion designer and its clients.
Figure 21 Fashion center allocation from Beijing to Tianjin of Chictopia
3 Support
The rapid development of fashion design can’t be separated from various supports, such as favorable policies, tariff leverage, and technological support, whereas there is no exception in the development of Chictopia. The Chinese government has issued a new policy to compensate the consumption policy of China in clothes and cosmetics with the combination of tax reformation in May 2015. The import tax of clothes is 10% in China, which is a relatively low percentage with that of the other countries. If that rate is leveraged into 30%, the high import priced products can be shaken. It is reported by Beijing Business Newspaper (http://www.cnga.org.cn/news/View.asp?NewsID=48192) that Yang Dajun, ECO of Youchi International Brand Investment Group, analyzes the current import tax rate in China is around 45% containing some overlaps whose solution can leverage the price of the import products. It seems the gross margin of the Chinese fashion brand is high, however, the net profit is low because of high cost from its product to ending sales. Thus, the rate is added when leaving the factory. For instance, Ferragamo, Italian luxury brand will add six times leaving factory rate on the total price, however, it is 12 times of an average Chinese brand. The tariff is also a problem confronted by Chictopia for high profit pursuit. Thus, the newly issued policy on tariff in May, 2015 can help Chictopia and other Chinese fashion brand to obtain more profit. Besides, the rapid development of science and technology provide new ideas for fashion designers. It is reported by Global 2014 that the smart wearing, updated 3D printed fabric, ecological textile, antibiosis socks are invented in the foreign countries (http://lady.gmw.cn/newspaper/2015-01/13/content_103700885.htm). This sheds lights on the future development of Chictopia to use the hi-technology to design its clothes. Generally speaking, the support of the government and the technology establish a sound working environment for Chinese fashion design brand.
4 Sustainability
The sustainability means fashion design brand should concern its continuous development and its future development direction in terms of distribution, fabric, design. This is a higher requirement to the fashion brand designers because they have to consider the cost margin, reflection of the clients and response of the market together. When Christine Lau designs Chictopia, she sets the young people as her target and potential clients because she considers they have higher attempt of new things than the older ones. The low carbon fabrics and bamboo charcoal fibers are initial preferred clothes of Chictopia. Christina Lau says these kinds of material satisfy the consumption notion of the young who do not only want to buy something beautiful but also good quality with novel fabric because the young love to try something new. Besides, the distribution of Chictopia is not only restricted in the shopping malls but also some new ways such as mobile shopping, net shopping, etc. Cody (2015: pp.90-92) maintains that the B to C distribution way can reduce the unnecessary cost compared with B to B. From that it can see that the sustainability of Chictopia increases its development in Chinese fashion brand. #p#分页标题#e#
To sum up, from the success of Chictopia it is no hard to see that there are various potentials for the other Chinese fashion design brand to develop themselves. As a good team can help the Chinese fashion design brand to create good internal atmosphere, it can stimulate the leading designer put more heart and soul on the design itself without distraction of the other affairs, thus more potential of the designer can be found. Besides, the good location of the fashion brand can stimulate the development of the fashion brands and the horizon of the fashion designer, which is good for both the fashion designer and its clients, so the fashion center is good choice to the fashion design. Furthermore, the support of the government, favorable tariff and technology set an enjoyable setting for Chinese design brands. The current sustainable trends help the Chinese design brands continue to refashion themselves. Under these circumstances, the future of Chinese design brands is promising and outlook.
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